You are now admiring one of my custom made jackets. In this case, from a long time favorite vintage maker of mine.
Inspired by a rare jacket design. All patterned using several original same 1st generation (from that jacket to first use a zipper for closure) model Monarch jackets designed & built for Hercules.My fine Monarch jackets are truly accurate renditions. Let me tell you all about it!
A transitional year when either the Sun Burst M-39 Talon (with or without a grommet) or grommet type zipper assemblies were both utilized. Your build will be very well appointed with all those available accouterments and then some.Ultimately making your jacket something to both behold and an absolute pleasure to wear. Monarch's early style jackets used to build their pre War Hercules jackets as seen here were characterized by having a slightly smaller back panel than later models.
Thus creating a visually pleasing ever so slightly smaller sleeve hole & greater angle to the shoulders. Also making she shoulders seams just visible at the back. Ultimately giving that jacket a sightly sloping shoulder. All the while adding more cup to the collar hole at the back panel. The sleeves were then inset and rotated for greater range of motion and added comfort.In addition, a noticeable drop to the front along the hem where it terminates at the zipper's connection points. A sharp looking jacket & all seen here with this build as originally contracted by Hercules through Monarch. For this particular build the outer shell is an Italian made black colored vegetable tanned slow top coat wear aka Vicenza/Victory horsehide. But can also be done in russet, dark brown or chocolate colors. This horsehide was recently acquired as a minimum order by me from Italy and specially made for my use.
It is a medium weight which will require some break in but only just. Much like that jacket example seen in the descriptive images here, at the stated price point, all hardware used to build your fine jacket will be 100% period correct. Furthermore & to keep the jacket in the spirit of the 1930's, your jacket will be stitched using 100% cotton thread. Buttonholes done using my vintage Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine. To include my vintage double needle machine & exact same machine as originally used to create the French type (double) seams seen on all Monarch made jackets from back in the day.
As seen in the attached descriptive images, the example jacket was done using a medium (shirt weight) & 100% wool lining. It is semi smooth and will not pill. Cotton drill was my choice for the sleeve's lining. In this case, set up with inset 100% wool cuffs. All as done back in the day.For upgrades over the original I added a welted pocket to the inside. In addition, a well supported map/pistol pocket. The map and deep front hand warming pockets were then lined in a cotton mole skin for added comfort. With any of my given jackets & to achieve the absolute best build possible I use up to five completely different machines to create a given jacket.
Many of which were originally used by Monarch MFG. For their jacket builds back in the day and now lending my jacket's that true vintage look. Subsequently, your build will look exactly as originally done on all original Monarch jackets. Built using elegant French seams throughout.All seen on this Monarch/Hercules example in the descriptive images. A time consuming option subsequently avoided by most all other modern reproduction jacket makers. Originally featured with few exceptions & exclusively done on all vintage Monarch jackets. Much like Monarch I'm now the jacket maker then went that extra step.
Moreover, I recently acquired some fine looking vegetable tanned goat hide in black, russet and seal brown that would make an excellent option for a great looking slightly more economical build verses horse hide. If interested I would be glad to show you those hide options.
Please check out my other jacket build options. You will also find a few that are ready built. Not to mention, II always have an interesting on going personal project jackets going on. Not only do I build jackets from scratch as an avid vintage jacket enthusiast I also restore and collect them.I own over 25 original vintage Monarch jacket both civilian and military type & in all manner of sizes and models for reference. Many having been completely restored by me to use as wearers. The item "MONARCH HERCULES STYLE HALF BELT ITALIAN LEATHER HORSE HIDE JACKET BUILT TO SUIT" is in sale since Saturday, May 22, 2021. This item is in the category "Clothing, Shoes & Accessories\Men\Men's Clothing\Coats, Jackets & Vests". The seller is "sheeley8yv5" and is located in Virginia Beach, Virginia. This item can be shipped to United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Denmark, Romania, Slovakia, Bulgaria, Czech republic, Finland, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Estonia, Australia, Greece, Portugal, Cyprus, Slovenia, Japan, China, Sweden, South Korea, Indonesia, Taiwan, South africa, Thailand, Belgium, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Netherlands, Poland, Spain, Italy, Germany, Austria, Bahamas, Israel, Mexico, New Zealand, Singapore, Switzerland, Norway, Saudi arabia, Ukraine, United arab emirates, Qatar, Kuwait, Bahrain, Croatia, Malaysia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Panama, Jamaica, Barbados, Bangladesh, Bermuda, Brunei darussalam, Bolivia, Ecuador, Egypt, French guiana, Guernsey, Gibraltar, Guadeloupe, Iceland, Jersey, Jordan, Cambodia, Cayman islands, Liechtenstein, Sri lanka, Luxembourg, Monaco, Macao, Martinique, Maldives, Nicaragua, Oman, Peru, Pakistan, Paraguay, Reunion, Viet nam, Uruguay.